Pool heater Troubleshooting

This piece of equipment requires an experienced electrician to repair. Do not attempt to repair this unit without the appropriate experience

ATTENTION: POOL SERVICE PERSON…TURN OFF THE POOL HEATER WHEN SERVICING FOR: Pool repair, piping repair, filter cleaning, spa cleaning, adding chemicals or water, pump repair or just moving the valves…FAILURE TO TURN OFF THE HEATER MAY RESULT IN HEATER DAMAGE, AND WILL VOID ALL VERBAL, WRITTEN, AND EXPRESSED WARRANTIES.

1.  TURNING THE HEATER OFF: Turn the power switch.
2.  TURNING THE HEATER ON: When the pool or spa pump is still running and purged of all air bubbles, turn valve
     B to the heater down or up to parallel with piping (see diagram A for valve B operating instructions).
3.  TURN THE HEATER ON WITH THE TOGGLE ON/OFF SWITCH IN THE UP POSITION.
4.  THE DIGITAL CONTROL TEMPERATURE CONTROL DOES NOT NEED RECALCULATION, IT REMEMBERS ALL THE
     LAST SETTINGS AND IS READY TO START AGAIN JUST WHERE YOU LEFT OFF. LIMITED WARRANTY

What can go wrong.

1.  You can think there is a problem and be incorrect.
2.  You can run the unit dry of fluid and burn up elements.
3.  Elements can burn out and need to be replaced.
4.  You do not have enough pressure coming to the heater to engage the pressure switch.
5.  The pressure switch can fail.
6.  You can run the unit dry and burn out thermostats.
7.  The electronic temperature control can fail.

Diagnostic Test for unit as a whole to see if it is operating at full capacity.

1. Measure the AMP draw to the unit when it is operating. You put an
AMP clamp over the inbound lines with the meter set to AMPS. Refer to the full load AMP draw for your heater on page 3 of this manual. If the unit is on and pulling less than the full load AMP draw there is probably a bad element or thermostat.

Diagnostic tests for elements

If your heater does not heat and all the lights are on then the first check should be the elements.
If your heater is tripping the breaker your first test should be to test the elements.

1. Turn off the power at the breaker.

2. Measure the ohms across the two posts at the top of the element.

The schedule below shows what the ohms reading should be depending on the size of the element.

6000W 240 V Ohms= 9.6
4500 W 240 V Ohms= 12.8
6000 W 208 V Ohms=7.2

If the ohms reading is 0 the element is ruined. If the ohms reading is not stable the element is
questionable.

Remove the element if the reading is 0 and inspect it. If it is split open it was ruined due to air in the system for an extended period of time. That is not covered under any warranty. If there is no evidence of splitting then your warranty will be in effect if the part is newer than two years.


Diagnostic test for pressure switch.


1.  If the ETC does not light up and show the inbound or set temperature when all switches are on there could be
     a problem at the pressure switch.
2.  Turn off the power at the breaker.
3.  Measure continuity across the two lead wires on the pressure switch with water flowing thru the heater.
     If you have continuity the pressure switch is not the problem.
     If you do not have continuity thru the switch then check the pressure gauge on your pool filter to be sure
     there is over 3 PSI of pressure in the system.
     If there is over three PSI in the system and the pressure switch does not engage(have continuity) you need to
     replace the pressure switch.


Diagnostic test for the thermostats.

1.  Turn off the power at the breaker.
2.  Check for continuity across the two poles of all four thermostats.
3.  If you have continuity they work and are not the problem. If you do not have continuity they need to be
     replaced.


Diagnostic test for the Electronic Temperature Control.

1.  If every other part is working and the ETC does not light up then it will need to be replaced.
     You should bypass(jump out) the pressure switch to determine if the ETC is the problem



Tankless, Inc. 2060 Whitfield Park Ave., Sarasota, FL 34243 Phone: 1-800-TANKLESS 1-800-826-5537
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